The Mexican people are a very passionate people. They express their passion through many outlets, not the least of which is Dia de Los Muertos (Day of the Dead). This vibrant, colorful, family oriented celebration of life through memorials of the dead perfectly typifies the exuberantly passionate way that Mexican people relate to the world. That is what I wanted to be a part of when I scheduled a trip to Mexico for the first few days of November 2018.
I had decided in April to visit Mexico for Day of the Dead and unknowingly booked an amazing hotel right down in the center of historic downtown Mexico City. Originally I wanted to see the parade that accompanied the holiday. I was sadly disappointed to learn that parade (which was started only after the successful depiction of it in the James Bond movie Specter) is held the weekend before the actual Day of the Dead (November 1). So I missed that. However being right downtown allowed me to participate in a lot of the other official activities.
In the historic square downtown there is a large display with stationary statues, explanations about day of the dead, and large arches welcoming you into the square. Also found down here will be lots of people in costume. Some of which depict La Catrina, or the lady of the dead. There are some very elaborate costumes here, and you can get your picture taken with them for a small fee. There are others dressed up as well: batman, the joker, predator, the clown for ‘it’, and many others. All looking to get your pesos. Looking at the stateues helps you understand the strong connection that the Mexican people have to their herritage through this memorial celebration. When you head out of the square and up 5th of May Avenue you can mingle with the people filling this popular shopping and gathering walking street. Along the way you will witness not only street vendors but also many more people in costume (some for fun and some for money) and have an opportunity to get your face painted to fit in! Continuing along this fabled street will prove to be an exciting event as you start to notice street performers singing, dancing, and playing music all for a few pesos. Plan to spend some time here as it only gets better as the evening goes on. The walking mall street ends at the Palace of Fine Arts. Here you can find more performers as well as a street market where you can purchase some of the best tacos and tamales you’ll ever eat. They also sell souvenirs and other wares in this market. Look for the small day of the dead cakes (Pan de Muertos) as it is AMAZINGLY good! The crossed ribbons on top represent the bones of those who have come before so be respectful as you eat it. The downtown area is a great place to be a part of the celebration of day of the dead but the real place you need to visit is one of the large cemeteries where the people gather.
I had the privilege to go to a very large cemetery found just to the south of the city. To be honest I was a little nervous about going as I had heard a few bad stories about people being assaulted there due to the large amount of alcohol consumed. But I wanted to see for myself. I also didn’t know what to expect as the only exposure I’ve ever had to cemeteries is the way we relate to them as Americans; quiet, somber, and reflective. These fears went away quickly as I was greeted at the entrance by a large mariachi band playing and welcoming people in. I wasn’t the only ‘tourist’ here either. The entire cemetery was full of people, some to celebrate, some to remember, and some to observe. I was timid at first about not interfering or intruding upon what I was forcing to be a somber event. But after a few interactions with people I realized that the memorial I was witnessing wasn’t just about missing someone, but more about celebrating their existence and influence in life. The event I had come to witness and experience had so much more meaning than I had ever anticipated. The Mexican people had taken what Americans would consider a place for somber reflection and turned it into a celebration intended to honor those who had shaped that world we live in. What an incredible way to relate the past to the preset and teach each other how to be passionate not only about life but death! As I wandered down the dark thin paths between the mausoleums from one candle lit grave to the next I couldn’t help but reflect on how my own cultural fears and limitations have shaped the way I see death. I couldn’t arrive at any other conclusion than to think that I need to celebrate the lives of my past family as much as the Mexican people do. There must be some way that we as Americans can learn more from our past than fearing it.
As the night came to a close, I found myself not wanting to leave the graveyard. Not wanting the celebration to end. Not wanting to enter back into the world of the living where life forgets the things that are important in favor of the here and now. Maybe if I try I can keep the lessons learned in Mexico City as I return to my world in the Rocky Mountains… Maybe…