On a recent trip to India I was afforded the opportunity to do something that always is high on my list, visit a haunted place. Its far outside the normal tours and places that people see. But is it worth your time to go there? HECK YES!
I’ve been to quite a few haunted places over the years. I tend to find myself seeking them out, going to them, and often spending the night. So when my tour arranger from Trip.Me said there was a place in India that is known for being haunted I asked if i could go! The next thing i knew it was on the agenda. Yay! Now I’ve been to several famous haunted places and even more lesser known ones but rarely one in another country. Having visited the Hotel Colorado, Stanley Hotel, and other smaller places the thought of seeing a ghost is always high on the list of attractiveness to me.
India is a place of mystery and exotic intrigue. So the when the opportunity came up to visit Bhangar Fort I jumped at it. A few days before I was scheduled to visit my driver wanted to talk to me about it. He asked me ‘do you really want to go to Bhangar Fort? No one ever goes there.’ and I said yes, i was wanting to go. He stated that it would be very difficult to get there as well as visit Amber Fort and go horse back riding all in one day. I told him i wanted to go and he dropped it.
The next day (the day before I was supposed to go) he asked again. ‘Are you sure its what you want to do? Bhangar fort is far away and you won’t have time to do everything you want.’ I again told him, yes I wanted to go. He argued for a few minautes with me but I was convinced that I wanted to go. I told him I wanted to go and that’s what we were going to do.
The day that I was scheduled to go to Bhangarh fort I woke up early. It was going to be a very busy day. After breakfast at the hotel I met the driver and we headed off. First stop of the day was Amber fort, second Bhangarh fort, and finally horse back riding. The drive to Amber Fort was fun as we got to see all of the elephants headed to the fort for the day. They just walk along the road until they get there and then carry people to the fort up a steep road. Amber Fort is massive. I spent longer in there than I had imagined that i would. There was so much to see and places to explore that I was lost in my own little world imagining a bygone time and wondering what it would have been like to live here. After spending way too much time in Amber fort it was time to head down and go to Bhangarh Fort.
The drive to Bhangarh Fort was going to be 2 hours from Amber Fort. As I got into the car the driver told me that we now didn’t have enough time left to get to Bhangarh and do the horse back riding. I told him if i have to chose I am picking the fort. So off we went. About half an hour into the drive he subject came up again: ‘Are you sure you want to go to Bhangarh Fort?’ Of course I said yes. He said ‘Why do you want to go there? No one ever goes there.’ I told him that was the very reason i wanted to go. He replied ‘It’s very far and we will be short on time’. I told him I didn’t care. Finally he dropped it. As we traveled on about an hour later he brought it up again: ‘I’ve been driving people here for 10 years and I’ve never taken anyone to Bhangarh Fort.’ I told him that’s why i wanted to go. He said ‘Why do you want to go? The road is bad getting there and I’m afraid it’ll tear up my car’. I said lets just go and see. He replied ‘I don’t think you should go to Bhangarh Fort.’ I asked why. He replied ‘Because it’s dangerous. The fort is ruined and its a dangerous place.’ Again I told him all the more reason i want to go. He said ‘Please don’t go there. its dangerous.’ I asked why was he so worried about it? What was so dangerous? After about 20 minutes of arguing while we were driving I got him to tell me: ‘Its dangerous because of the spirits. No one goes there because people disappear from there.’
I knew in advance that local rumors said that the spirits at Bhangarh Fort were malicious and dangerous but hearing the fear in his voice as we pulled up to the fort made the experience all the more exciting. As we walked through the massive walls of the outer city I explored the fear he had even more. Asking him ‘tell me the stories.’ As we walked through the first few feet of the ruins he told me that many people have gone into Bhangarh Fort and not come back out. The stories say that people will come into the Fort, wander around aimlessly, and disappear only to be found again in the local village confused and with no memory of how they got there. After telling me the story he stopped walking, looked at me and said ‘I’m not going any further.’ So i left him there and continued on. 
There were monkeys everywhere as I explored and journeyed. Climbing on the walls, hiding in the ruins and playing in the grass, the monkeys and their babies stole my attention for a brief time as i forgot I was there looking for ‘spirits’.
The outer walls of the Fort contain a very large ruined city. Entry ways to what was once a thriving bustling community of Indian people. The signs of the success of the city are everywhere, from faded tile floors to intricately decorated entry ways. Most of the buildings have fallen prey to time though. As you approach the inner wall to the Fort it becomes more more well maintained, as the grass is cut and the paths are more level. There are two small temples as you get there that are worth taking a little time at, just remember to take your shoes off as you enter. The real thrill of the site is the fort itself. From the ground it appears to be in tact. The outer wall is massive and the approach obviously oriented to keep invaders at bay. But as you get to the center of the fort it is apparent that it has never been kept up.
Exploring the fort is somewhat akin to the first time you move into a new house as a child. There are so many places to look for things (read that ghosts). Passages that lead nowhere, stairs that bring you to a new exciting level, ruined rooms that could contain exotic treasures. You’re free to explore at your own pace and wherever you want. Keeping in mind that some of the areas could be dangerously dilapidated. About 2 hours into my exploration I became very aware that I was the only westerner there. There were other people there, perhaps 100. But the site is massive and 100 people spread out over it isn’t very many. About 2 hours into my exploration I suddenly took on rock star status. People suddenly realized that I wasn’t actually a ghost but was an American that was willing to take selfies. And the journey back out of the fort was a long one as every Indian there wanted to take a picture with the pale faced western ghost … i mean guy.
I never did see a ghost while I was there. No close encounters, no scary spooks, and i remember the whole visit. What i did experience was a fantastic place away from the crowds of the major sites. A place where I could explore and not be pressured. An amazing ruined fort with kind people, beautiful temples, and an exciting oppertunity to explore history on my own. It was one of my favorite things about India, and I”ll never forget my trip to one of Asia’s most haunted places.
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